Army, Navy, and Air Force, together with their spouses, could sit comfortably inside Dublin's 50,000-seat Croke Park, where the national hurling and Gaelic football matches are played every autumn. There are more sheep in Ireland than peo- ple, and twice as many cows, and both enjoy the right of way on rural Irish roads. Life in Ireland is played on a very small stage-one reason, perhaps, why Irish newspapers feature no gossip columns, and why journalists have no tradition of inves- tigative reporting....