as a whole. It cuts through elegant quarters and crowded slums, through a seemingly endless variety of neighborhoods that re- flect India's sundry regions, religions, castes, and classes.
The daily traffic is an extraordinary mix: government offi- cials, diplomats, and business executives speeding through the dust in their limousines; fleets of aggressive, gaily painted trucks; a seemingly endless parade of bicyclists and pedestrians; and a slow circus procession of farmer's bullock carts, buffaloes,...